We started at the end, where boxes of meat are stacked and
loaded for shipping. It’s cold. We saw bins of trim to be ground in
to hamburger, each one tested for bacteria. We saw row upon row of workers
performing different stages of fabrication, the cutting and carving of the
carcass into wholesale cuts. The workers sharpen their knives continually, the steel
hanging on a chain belt at their waist. They put the weight of their body
behind the cut, in and out around the spine, cleaning meat off bone with expert
swiftness. The bones are tossed on a conveyor to be processed into bone meal,
which, along with blood meal and tallow are two by-products – nothing is
wasted.
Then we walk through spacious coolers where carcass halves sway in
long lines, the t-bone exposed for grading. A row of inspectors constantly
guard the public against every possible defect.
Suddenly it’s warm as we get closer to the actual killing
area. I’ve never been this close before. And having never hunted a living animal
for food, it was unsettling, mesmerizing, fascinating. I want to stand and
watch long enough for it to sink in, long enough to make sense of it. But we
don’t want to break the rhythm of the line and so hurry through. The workers at
the top of the line, skinning and removing the entrails, stand like warriors,
performing their task with a matter-of-factness I find incredible. They do this
for a living; without them we would be out of business. I realize how grateful I am to work on the opposite end of
the beef business.
Finally we go out of doors to the receiving area – the
animals here are familiar, walking upright with bright, trusting eyes. There is
reverence in this space. Unloaded quietly, the cattle can drink in every pen. The
area is covered, clean and dry, with sure-footed surfaces. Cattle naturally
like to circle back to where they started, so the alleyway curves back towards the
arriving trucks. They climb a concrete chute, also curved, and one by one enter the stunning
box. They have no idea what awaits them. I saw no fear, no angst.
What’s that word I keep thinking of? Oh yes, visceral. I
look it up on wikipedia. Viscera
refers to the internal organs of the body cavity, the stomach, intestines, etc.
Visceral is also used to describe a
deep inward emotion, an instinct as opposed to intellect, as in a “gut
feeling,” one that is felt rather than thought out. I decide it’s a good word to
describe the kill plant, on both accounts.
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